When you get on your first electric bike (or “e-bike”), it can be like getting a superpower. For one thing, pedal-assist e-bikes open up a whole new world of two-wheeled fun: you can conquer those pesky stop-and-go traffic jams, carry more people or more stuff, feel less exerted when you reach your destination, and conquer hills and distances that would have seemed insurmountable without them.
At first glance, electric bikes can be classified similarly to regular bikes: road and mountain. However, there are further subcategories for e-bikes, such as urban, hybrid, cruiser, cargo, and folding cycles.
A Comprehensive Overview of the Three Main Types of Electric Bikes
Electric bikes are categorized according to the amount of motor assistance they provide, mostly for regulatory purposes. State and local governments, as well as most bike manufacturers, have embraced this three-tiered system. Determining the type of electric bike that best suits your needs is an important first step.
In terms of electric bicycles, what are the three main segments?
Class 1: The electric bike’s engine only assists when you pedal; it cuts off altogether at 20 mph.
Class 2 bikes also have a pedal-assist mode that can reach 20 mph and a non-pedaling mode that is throttle-driven.
Class 3: Like class 1, class 3 e-bikes have full pedal assist, but at 28 mph, the assist comes to a halt.
Motors, Riding Distances, and Batteries for Electric Bikes
The manufacturer’s major focus is the motor in each bike. Performance vs. riding range is the design tradeoff. A more powerful motor allows you to keep up with traffic faster, climb hills, and move cargo with more torque. However, the riding range is reduced since a more powerful engine consumes the battery faster.
Typical riding-range specifications for potential e-bikes range from twenty to one hundred miles when pedal-assisted miles are considered. Reason being, riding range is affected by a myriad of factors.
1. A large battery helps
The amount of time a battery can hold 1 watt of power before dying is measured in watt hours (Wh). So, motor power is also important: It takes more time for a 500-watt motor and a 500 Wh battery to drain power than a 250-watt motor and a 500 Wh battery, which is the typical configuration for class 3 bikes.
2. Battery charge time
Charging a fully dead battery takes three to five hours on average, more for larger-capacity batteries. If you intend to use your e-bike for commuting, you can purchase additional chargers or bring your own.
3. Battery count
Two batteries can be used simultaneously by some electric bicycles. Because of this, you can go farther on a single charge, and you always have a backup in case one dies. Another option is to purchase a spare battery, so you always have one on hand or to replace your current one when it dies (usually after several thousand charges).
4. Battery Installation
Thanks to the built-in batteries, there is room for a few bottle cages or a little cycle pack. Charging and replacing external batteries is a breeze.
Location of the E-Bike Motor
Mid-drive motors are located on the bottom bracket, where the crank arms connect to the bike frame, and are grouped into two types. One type mounts inside the wheel’s hub, while another is on the front wheel.
1. Mid-drive motors
Several motors use this configuration. By keeping the motor’s weight low and centered, the pedal assist responds naturally, and the bike remains stable and balanced throughout the ride.
2. Motors that drive hubs
The sensation of being propelled forward is achieved by the use of rear-wheel hub-drive motors, which transmit pedal power directly to the rear wheel. Remember that repairing a flat on a wheel with a hub drive could be trickier than on a regular bike with a mid-drive or standard wheel. You can use a regular bike drivetrain on the back of a front-hub drive motor, making the bike handle like a front-wheel drive automobile.
Electric Bike Engine RPM
You should examine the torque specs if you intend to ride steep hills or carry hefty loads. The highest torque that an electric bike can have, expressed in newton meters (N m), may be anything from forty to eighty N m. However, depending on your pedal-assist settings, your actual riding torque may differ.
Additional Crucial Elements of an Electric Bike
A variety of integrated accessories are now standard on many e-bikes:
1. Lights
This is a common safety feature on commuting or city riding bikes. Lighting systems differ, with more powerful lights seen on higher-end bikes.
2. Racks
These strong racks can hold much weight and are commonly seen on freight e-bikes. You’ll need to check the type of your bike to make sure a rack you’re considering will fit your e-bike, but there’s a good selection available separately.
3. LCD screens attached to the handlebars
With all the functions available on an e-bike, it’s convenient to have a bike computer that can be attached to the handlebars. This way, you can keep track of your battery life, pedal assist mode, miles cycled, speed, and more.
4. Smartphone connectivity
The latest generation of e-bike electronics allows for wireless smartphone connectivity. Possible applications include global positioning systems (GPS), service records, and supplementary screen functions. Unlocking your bike’s integrated lock is even possible with some apps.
In the end!
One last thing about bikes in general and electric bikes in particular: the ideal bike is the one that fits you. When making a substantial purchase like an electric bike, it’s wise to test-ride many models to find one that suits your needs, or at least one that can be adjusted with some clever component swaps.
The most important thing is to know, roughly according to your height, what size bike frame you need for a proper fit. An e-bike’s intended fit to your specific body dimensions depends on factors beyond frame size, such as frame shape. The ideal approach to getting a bike that fits you perfectly—knees, shoulders, back, feet, and hands—is to go to a bike store.